Adios Mexico....Hello El Salvador!!

We departed Huatulco around 6:00 PM for Chiapas, Mexico, 260 nm's across the Gulf of Tehuantepec with cruising friends Stan/Val (m/v Pax Nautica) and John/Sam/Veronica (m/v Seaquest).  The Gulf is known for strong offshore winds that actually come from the Gulf of Mexico.  Winds can rise to Gale or Storm force quite rapidly, so weather planning is key to crossing safely.  Our crossing was perfect

Gulf of Tehuantepec...Like a pond for us!!

Dorado were not large..but plentiful!  Fresh ceveche!!

 Pangas were common along our route..even 10 to 15 miles offshore.  Some use Long-Lines (floating lines often over 1 mile long from which thousands of hooks are suspended).  During the day they are easy to spot.  At night, it's a different story.  Most pangas have no lights.  You must pay close attention to the radar!!  They will often carry a flashlight and signal if you get too close. 

Panga fisherman were encountered often..

Shrimper...often travel in fleets of 10 to 20 boats

 We arrived in Chiapas after a 40 hour crossing to check out of Mexico.  Checking in and out of countries requires getting a Zarpe.  In Chiapas it took most of the day to get signatures from the Port Authority, Port Captain and Immigration.  You also get 2 inspections by the military with drug sniffing dogs.  They were all very helpful and polite (except the Immigration office).  With the help of Enrique (now managing the construction of a new marina in Chiapas), we were able to Check-in the Port and Check-out of the country in 1 day.

Military stands guard at the entrance to the anchorage.

 The following morning we departed Chiapas for another 240 mile run to Bahia del Sol, El Salvador.  Bahia has an entrance bar that must be crossed at high slack tide.  We arrived offshore of the entrance at 3AM, dropped the anchor and waited for our crossing at 8:00AM.  We could here the surf pounding at the entrance....

At high slack, a jet ski from the marina comes out and you get set to cross the bar.  He reads the surf sets and then at the right moment radios "Make Black Smoke!!).  Full throttle and you head for the entrance...no turning back now!!

View from the Pilothouse as we started in.....

Getting a push from behind from a following wave.

The crossing is over before you know it...but was the best E-Ticket ride we have had in a while!!

Marina Bahia del Sol

We had prearranged more inland touring before Linda (crew for 3 weeks) returned to the States.  We retained a great guide named Jorge (Tourin) and made ready for a 3-day, 3-country tour of Mayan ruins and visits to 2 unique cities...Copan (Honduras) and Antigua (Guatemala).    

Significant Mayan archaeological sites in the region...

 Our tour started with a taste of El Salvador.  The cuisine in this region is different than Mexico.  Less hot spice, more pickled vegetables, much thicker tortillas.  The mainstay in El Salvador are Pupusas'.  Tortilla dough is formed into rounds and chicken, beef or vegetables are cooked inside.  It is served with pickled cabbage, onion etc...

Preparing Pupusas on the grill

Salvadoran Breakfast.. Pupusas, fresh juices and a delicious hot chocolate

The owner the restaurant was a Hot Rod fan...

Breakfast....Salvadorans eat well....

Common to see trucks parked/waiting with the driver asleep in a hammock underneath...

This site was accidently discovered by a backhoe operator clearing land for construction of storage tanks.  He dug into a mound and unearthed part of the foundation of the dwelling.  He fortunately stopped digging and the site was excavated by archaeologists.  The Mayans were active here around 250 - 950 AD. but mystery surrounds this Mayan Village...It appears that a nearby volcano erupted , covering the village.  The excavations have so far not unearthed any human remains which would be expected...so they feel that the Mayans had warning of the major eruption and vacated the village in advance.  Another Mayan mystery is that the Mayan culture mysteriously disappeared throughout the region...Several interesting theories abound..like they transcended to another dimension (alien influence) and simply disappeared.  A more logical theory is that they simply combined with the Aztecs..... There are clearly different opinions on this.  One last Mayan note...2012 marks the end of the Mayan calender.  There are a variety of opinions on what that means for the human race...google 2012!!

A single dwelling.  Note its size.

Note that layers of volcanic ash that had covered this site.  Volcanoes are abundant in the region



Dwelling



A religious location in the village.  The domed structure in the back of the photo is a sauna.



Cashew Tree...not seen these before.  The cashew is inside the green pod

From this site we continued on to the town of Copan, Honduras.  With some 6,000 to 7,000 people is was very pleasant.  We arrived ahead of the upcoming Lent celebrations, at which time the town will swell in population as nearby Hondurans arrive to take part in the festivities. 

Main Square in Copan.  Getting ready for Lent celebrations.

Our tour-mates..Stan, Val, Linda. 

Jorge, our tour guide....great sense of humor!!

Another light meal...the skewer and beef, vegetables and shrimp...

The restaurant staff carries drinks and meals to you on their head...unique delivery!!

Central Church on the Square, Copan

Central Copan

 The Mayan ruins close to Copan are larger and more extensive.  These ruins emerge for the Honduran forest near the city.  These ruins are known for their refined carving style.  This was a large site which included living for the nobility and the commoners.

Mayan Ruins, Copan

Copan

Copan

Copan

After the AM tour of the ruins, we boarded the van for a 5 hour drive to Antigua, Guatemala.  Founded in 1543 and served as the colonial capital for 233 years.  The capital was moved to Guatemala City in 1776, after a major earthquake struck Antigua.  In 1944, Antigua was declared a National Monument and today it retains its traditional character.  Three large volcanoes encircle the city. 

Entering Guatemala

Typical truck line-ups at the boarders.  We slipped right through...

 This church was partially destroyed by the earthquake in 1776.  A portion has been reconstructed but it it now significantly smaller.

Central Church in Antigua

Behind the rebuilt portion we found the remnants of the once larger church.  Almost 2/3 of the original church remain in ruin.  In this area there are several tombs and also the main alter.

This is part of the church not rebuilt

Our local guide explaining the history

Traditional Guatemalan dancers

Typical in the region..goods are carried on the head.

Ornate Catholic Church, Antigua.

Main Alter

 During Lent (a major multi-week celebration) sawdust carpets are constructed along the procession (carrying Jesus on the cross) routes.  Sawdust is brightly colored and laid in advance in very intricate designs.  Since the processions actually destroy the carpet and also occur on multiple day , these carpets are rebuilt several times,

Example of the sawdust carpets inside the church



Typical bus transportation...colorful!!

Central Antigua

Common site in this region

Central Market...anything can be found here!!

We saw parents and kids on bicycles and motorcycles (one motorcycle had 5 aboard)

Antigua side-street.

Street Food

 Jade was the currancy of the Mayan's and remains important to this region.  Jade was also used to assist those passing away into the next world..Jade masks were one of the tickets.

Antiqua Jade Factory...all still made individually by hand.

Jade polishing and cutting





Jade replicas of Mayan jade artifacts.



Hand made textiles are also important in the region.  A local artisan and museum provided a colorful overview of the workmanship.  Each region has unique designs/colors. 

This is a hip loom.  It is tied on one end to a pole and then it wraps around the worker. Designs are intricate and done without a pattern.

Rosie in full dress....

Typical traditional dress

Typical rural home

Police check points and Military guards were common along the route.

Roadside vendors...usually at checkpoints

Volcanoes are abundant..Guatemala has 33 itself. 

It is illegal for drivers not to wear seat belts...does not apply to anyone else in the vehicle!!

Lots of colorful birds...some we will be seeing/hearing monkeys!!

Driving through Guatemala City..It is not a scenic city!  Over 6 million live here.

Back into El Savador...Great Trip!

We are now back aboard Serena Ray....enjoying exploring the estuary.  Our crew, Linda Winn, flew back to the States.  We look forward to her next tour of duty aboard Serena Ray!!  We are planning to resume our trek south on the 30th.  Next stop will be Nicaragua and then on to Costa Rica.  Hope this update finds you all well...until our next update....Hasta Luego Amigos!!