Mexico Through the “Back Door” on Two Wheels (without a sail).

On January 14th, I loaded up my new dual-sport motorcycle to join 3 other riders from Lewiston, ID for a motorcycle road trip from Sedona AZ through north central Mexico and into the Copper Canyon, actually deeper than our own Grand Canyon.

The Copper Canyon area is located some 600 miles south of the Arizona/ Mexico border and is comprised of over 20 canyons covering in excess of 25,000 square miles. Elevations in this region range from 7,500 to 9,500 feet along canyon rims and drop to 1,200 to 1,400 in the canyon bottoms.

Though sunny during our travels, temperatures were quite cool due to the elevations in the area (below freezing in the mornings rising to 40-50 degrees F in the afternoon). This rugged region has long been inhabited by the Raramuri Indians, also known as the Tarahumara. These mountain dwellers have managed to preserve their ancient way of life and share a common history with the Aztecs. During the 17th century Spanish settlers enslaved many Tarahumara, forcing them to toil in mines (silver) and to carry goods across terrain that was too rough for horses to negotiate. To escape enslavement, many retreated into the remote Copper Canyon area where they remain today. Interestingly, it was not until the 20th century that the railroad actually penetrated the canyon region, construction actually began in 1898 and was not completed until 1961.

By mid-day on the 17th we were crossing the border into Mexico at Douglas, AZ (after an “administrative” stop for Mexico bike insurance and the required temporary vehicle permits). The weather deteriorated that afternoon as we entered Mexico… bringing afternoon rain and cooler temperatures. Pressing south, we reached the town of Moctezuma late afternoon and found a small hotel for the night (no heat, but hot water!). By the next morning the sky was again blue…but cool… our spirits again lifted.

After another early departure on the 18th we finally found coffee at a small gas station at Tepache (gas stations are all government owned in Mexico, all are Pemex). We struck up a conversation with the attendant (older man knowing some English) who was quite interested in our journey. Dipping water from an outside tank, he boiled it in an old open coffee urn. Sufficiently boiled, we savored a cup of instant “Joe”.